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After
struggling to get out of the city thanks to the chronic traffic jams
coming out of Ho Chi Minh City, we make a turn for Ba To town in Xuyen
Moc district of Ba Ria- Vung Tau province and finally we’re making some
headway.
Our destination is Ho Tram beach, which runs alongside
the edge of Phuong Buu forest reserve. All along the coastline fishermen
come and go from bustling wharfs. On closer inspection we see hauls of
fish, crab and squid coming ashore. The sun-kissed fishermen unload
their boats then set about fixing their fishing nets as women from the
village sort the catches into baskets.
Nearby the Ho Tram Beach
Resort & Spa makes the most of the wonderful setting. From the front
of the brown tile-roofed houses guests can take it all in while taking a
dip in the swimming pool or down at the beach. Then there’s Sanctuary
Ho Tram, a spectacular waterfront community of luxury residential villas
and a five-star resort. Although still under construction, the chic,
modern white façade is still dazzling in the brilliant sun.
Two
kilometres down the coast at Ho Tram public beach you can rent a lounger
for VND10,000 or an inflatable ring for VND10,000 to VND20,000 and
lounge on the waves. After a swim we doze on the beach before hunger
rouses us. We decide to try the local restaurant where we enjoy a
delicious feast of boiled crab and grilled blood clams.
Afterwards
we visit Ba To town where we find a bustling seafood market with an
abundance of dried and fresh seafood available. Here the buildings are
sparsely furnished and simply decorated. The locals are easy going and
approachable. If you feel like exploring more the coastline you can rent
a bicycle or motorbike easily enough (we didn’t even need to leave a
deposit or ID card).
While the town itself is not particularly
impressive, the surrounding countryside is unforgettable with red-soil
paths running past shrimp ponds that sit amongst the golden paddy fields
that stretch as far as the horizon. After driving around in the sun we
decide its time to head back to the beach where we can take a cooling
dip then stretch out on the sand with nothing but the sounds of the sea
in our ears.
A gentle breeze blows over us as we nibble on a
plate of fresh squid and sip on a cold beer – simply heaven. Before the
sun sets I wander to the end of Ho Tram beach, which has been fenced
off, and I discover what else is to come. A five-star resort and
entertainment complex is now being developed to the tune of $4.2
billion; a rather incongruous sounding figure considering how quaint and
rustic the services on the beach I have just enjoyed are.
The
superior complex will be finished in 2011 and there will be two
five-star hotels offering 2,300 rooms, international restaurants, health
and spa facilities, conference rooms, a shopping centre and even a Las
Vegas-style casino. If it’s a simple beach holiday in a quiet
destination you are after, perhaps you should visit Ho Tram sooner
rather than later.
Getting there: Ho Tram is in Xuyen Moc
district of Ba Ria-Vung Tau province, 35km from Vung Tau city and 125km
from Ho Chi Minh City. From Ho Chi Minh City you can either drive or
take the hydrofoil from Ho Chi Minh City to Vung Tau (VND140,000) and
then get a taxi from Vung Tau to Ho Tram.
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